Preserve before repair? from an old Plumber
I did as the instructions said, & cleansed the inside with the proportion of Muriatic Acid & water suggested. (it etches the interior, protect your eyes etc.!) I then duct taped the openings on the outside with our friend, Duct tape.! It held the epoxy coating while it was applied.
Two things, be sure to remove your sending unit of course! The other being, when I did it, the "Liner" material was available in 2 grades.
Alcohol & non Alcohol grades. Be sure to check it is capable & safe to use with our modern fuels! The non-alcohol is/was considerably cheaper! I’m told it will dissolve, & really really gum up your fuel system!
Even if your tank isn’t leaking, & you may already have it out of the vehicle, I’d suggest doing it. Our vehicles for the most part sit for long periods. Condensation may well do in a reasonably sound looking tank later on. It would be a shame to mess up a redone underside to remove it later. Its not that bad a chore as long as its out already.
|Method Number 1:
I gotta agree. I’m not bringing a torch anywhere near a gas tank – steamed, boiled, purged or whatever.
If you want to solder try using one of the old soldering irons. The kind you used to heat on the old blowtorches. If you don’t have an old soldering iron you could certainly rig one up with a chunk of steel, copper or brass. That way the flame of whatever torch you’re using is away from the gas tank.
As far as holding your aluminum foil inside the gas tank, try the same trick plasterers use when patching gyproc.
1.)Depending on the size of your patch you may have to do this several times, but fish a wire, like stove pipe wire, through the hole you want to patch and back out the sender hole. Make a disk of cardboard about 3 inches in diameter. Wrap the disk with heavy aluminum foil. Attach your wire to the disk so you can pull it into place for the hole repair. Before putting the disk in the gas tank, attach a second wire to it so you can get it out of the tank after the repair. Loosely roll the disk just so it fits through the sender hole and pull it into place. Lay the bed of solder as needed. When done cut the holding wire about 2" from the tank surface and remove the disk. If the wire is soldered in place, by leaving the 2" you can now just heat the wire stub, it will melt the solder holding it and release the wire. Now just fill the tiny hole where the wire was with your soldering iron.
2.) Use a piece of aluminum – size applicable to the hole being patched- wire attached, put it in through the hole your patching, hold it in place with the wire, patch hole. Cut off wire as above. The aluminum piece can be left inside your tank where it shouldn’t do any damage and won’t rattle due to being buffered by the gas in the tank.
If you try this let me know how it worked out.