Let me say up front that what I suggest below is the result of breaking two pieces of new windshield glass, and ruining one rubber gasket before figuring out the easiest way to assemble the KB windshield frame. These steps are what I found to work best, but I’m sure there are other ways to accomplish the same thing with other products.

1. Disassemble the frame and clean throughly. In my opinion, the frame should be glass beaded or media blasted to insure that all paint and rust are removed.
2. Repair any rust holes especially in the lower corners.
3. Reassemble the frame without glass and be sure it fits properly in the truck windshield opening. This is the time to make any necessary adjustments to insure a good seal later.
4. At this point, I sent my frame out to be chrome plated, but most frames are painted or powder coated. If you are painting or powder coating the frame, I suggest filling the triangular channel on the outside of the frame with caulking strips or rope caulking that you can get in any hardware store before the paint is sprayed on. This leaves the gasket channel at its original dimension, which makes the application of the gasket much easier later on.
5. After painting, remove the caulking from the outer channel and clean throughly. If you have the frame chrome plated as I did, this is the time to spend some time on that outer channel because the chrome fills in small areas in the channel which makes it very difficult to install the gasket. I didn’t do this the first time, and I ended up ruining the gasket.
6. This is a very important step if you chrome plate the frame. Before assembly, it is essential that the outer channel be brought back to its original profile, and be clean of obstructions. I used a small cutoff wheel in a die grinder to clean the inside corners of this channel, then followed with a very small wire wheel. In places I couldn’t get at with the die grinder, I used a small piece of a 3 cornered file (about 1″) that I broke off the tip of a small file. This process is difficult, but if the channel isn’t completely clean and unobstructed, the gasket will not seat properly later on.
7. Before assembly, I poured SEM Rust Mort inside both halves of the frame, blew the excess out with compressed air, and then let the frame drain overnight. This was to insure that any rust on the inside of the frame got stabilized. I then used a pump oil can and squirted Marvel Mystery Oil inside the frame as a preservative and let that sit over night.
8. Now that the preparation is completed, assemble the glass into the frame without any sealant to insure that the glass fits. If the frame does not go together easily, something is wrong.
9. Sealant. In my various attempts at assembling my windshield, these are the products I tried and the result of the attempt:
a. Windshield mounting tape from Restoration Specialties. This product is too thick and non-pliable, and I ended up cracking the glass.
b. 3M Automotive Bedding and Glazing Compound. Very messy, hard to clean, and does not set. This product remains really soft.
c. Phenoseal: Although this product is water soluble, it is still very messy to use takes forever to set.
d. GE Silicon II Caulking Compound (black) . In my opinion, this is the product to use
10. Okay, here’s the assembly sequence. Put never seeze on the internal side pieces, and install them in the upper half of the frame. Put a THIN bead of Silicon II (1/4″ bead) around the inside of the glass channel and center divider on the flat horizontal surface, and slide the glass in. Then apply Silicon II to the bottom half of the frame, and slide the two halves together. At this point, I used two bar clamps and gently squeezed the halves together. Install the remaining four screws in the sides, and the two screws on the bottom. Use your finger and remove any excess Silicon that squeezed out on to the glass. Don’t worry if you have places that are not filled. Rubbing alcohol is a good solvent to use on the excess Silicon. Let the whole assembly set 24 hours and then use Silicon to go around the glass inside and out to fill any gaps using your finger to push the Silicon into the gap between the glass and the frame. Use alcohol and a clean rag to clean excess off of the glass and frame. Put the windshield aside for several days, and let the Silicon cure.
That’s it except for the gasket which I will explain in a separate message.
Good luck,



About jimhadfield

Retired and enjoying it.
This entry was posted in Windshield. Bookmark the permalink.


  1. Robert Knapp says:

    Question for you,

    1946, international k1, crank windshield, (probably the same model truck pictured above). I have my windshield, gasket, everything together and installed, the corners at lower driver and passenger side do not sit snug against the cab. They kind of hover close.

    My first thought is to get a bar clamp and gently tighten (from corner to corner, giving more angle) until my corners fall flat. My second thought is glass and metal flying in every direction.

    Do I just need a new frame?

    • jimhadfield says:

      A new frame is always a good idea to have. But not always necessary. Your frame maybe a bit tweaked due to conditions not created by you. I would make sure that the gasket is properly attached to the frame, etc. You could also look to see if just adding a spacer/washer/etc to one corner to get it to be a closer fit diagaonally.

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